The short answer
Chimney waterproofing seals the crown, flashing, cap and brick so rain and melting snow stop soaking into the masonry and leaking into your home. EverFlame inspects the chimney, makes small repairs, cleans the brick, and applies a breathable water repellent that keeps water out without trapping moisture inside.
Brick and mortar look solid, but they absorb water. In New York, that water freezes and thaws through the winter. Over time it cracks mortar joints, pops the faces off bricks, and rusts the damper and metal parts below. Chimney waterproofing from EverFlame Chimney Care stops water where it gets in: the crown, the flashing, the cap, and the masonry itself. We use a water repellent that still lets the brick breathe. Our certified technicians inspect first and repair what needs repair. Only then do they seal, so the treatment goes onto sound masonry instead of covering up a problem.
Signs you need it
Water damage in a chimney usually builds slowly. Many owners notice it inside the house before they ever look up at the roof. Watch for these signs:
Any one of these is worth a look. Two or more together usually mean water has been getting in for some time.
- Water in the firebox, or a damp or rusty damper after rain
- White, chalky staining on the brick. This is efflorescence, the salt left behind as water moves through the masonry
- Brick flakes, crumbled mortar, or pieces of flue tile in the firebox
- A stronger smoke or creosote smell in humid or rainy weather, because damp deposits give off more odor
- Peeling paint, brown stains, or soft drywall on the wall or ceiling next to the chimney
- A cracked crown, a missing cap, or gaps in the metal flashing where the chimney meets the roof
What's included
Waterproofing only works if the chimney underneath is in good shape. Every job includes the work needed to get it there:
We do not use paint-like coatings or ordinary sealers that form a film on the brick. Those trap moisture inside the masonry, where it freezes and causes more damage than if the brick had been left alone.
- Inspection of the chimney inside and out before any sealing
- Sweeping the flue if buildup is hiding the liner
- Camera scan of the flue when we suspect interior damage
- Crown check, with small cracks sealed using a crown sealant
- Flashing check, with minor gaps resealed. We tell you if the flashing needs replacing
- Cap and screen check, with a replacement recommended if the cap is missing or rusted through
- Repointing of small areas of failed mortar before treatment
- Cleaning the brick surface so the repellent can soak in
- A vapor-permeable masonry water repellent applied to the exterior brick and mortar
- Photos and a written summary of what we found and what we did
How we work in your home and on the roof
Inside, the crew lays drop cloths from the door to the fireplace before bringing in any tools. If the flue needs sweeping, we run a HEPA vacuum at the firebox opening while rotary brushes clean the liner. That keeps soot in the flue and out of your living room. If we need a closer look at the liner or the inside of the chimney walls, we send a camera up the flue and show you the footage.
On the roof, technicians use fall protection and set up to keep debris off your gutters and shingles. They clear loose material from the crown, check and reseal the flashing, and make any small mortar repairs. The masonry has to be dry before treatment, so we watch the forecast and reschedule rather than seal wet brick. The repellent goes on with a low-pressure sprayer, which lets it soak into the brick instead of running off. Before we leave, we clean up both the roof work area and the fireplace.
The standard we follow
The NFPA 211 standard calls for chimneys, fireplaces and vents to be inspected once a year. Chimney professionals use three inspection levels. Level 1 is for when nothing about the system has changed. Level 2 is for when the system changes, such as a new appliance or a switch of fuel, or when the home is sold. Level 3 is for when a hidden hazard can only be reached by opening part of the chimney or building.
Most waterproofing jobs start with a Level 1 or Level 2 inspection. If your building has converted its boiler from oil to gas, the chimney has to be evaluated as part of that work. A new liner is often needed, because gas exhaust produces acidic condensate that can corrode a masonry flue. We check for that before sealing the outside, since a failing liner can let moisture into the brick from the inside.
What affects the price
Every chimney is different, so we quote after we see it. These are the main factors:
- Chimney height and how hard the roof is to reach, including steep pitches and rowhouse or multi-story access
- Fuel type, since oil, gas and wood each leave different deposits and wear
- Flue size and the condition of the liner
- How much buildup has to be swept before the flue can be inspected
- Whether a camera inspection is needed
- The amount of repair required first, such as crown work, flashing, repointing or a new cap
How a visit works
You book a time, and we confirm the day based on the weather, because sealing needs dry masonry. When the technician arrives, they walk through what you have noticed, protect the area around the fireplace, and inspect the chimney inside and from the roof. You get a clear explanation of what they found. Small repairs and waterproofing can often be done the same day. Larger repairs are quoted separately so you can decide.
After the work, you receive photos and a written summary. If your building follows New York City's heat season, which runs from October 1 through May 31, we suggest scheduling in late spring or summer. That leaves time for any repairs before the heating system is in daily use.